Sew Surprised (and excited)!

So the blog has obviously been quiet for many weeks now.  So has my sewing machine. 
Any guesses why?  In mid-March I was super-surprised to find out we are expecting another baby!  

Fifth baby announcement (with apologies for photo quality).

I won't go in to all the ways and reasons that his is so surprising right now; you'll just have to trust me.  I will say this: I was sooooo sick.  This is pregnancy number nine (yes, nine) for me, and by far the worst.  For about four weeks I could barely function - in bed 75% of the day, on the couch the rest of the time.  I couldn't understand it.  Thankfully, it went to normal first trimester sickness after a bit, and now that I am in the second trimester, I am feeling pretty good.  I don't know if it is or was related or not, but by 8 weeks I was diagnosed with gestational diabetes.  Maybe the bad sugar levels were contributing to the super-sickness for a bit?  This is my first time with an official diagnosis, and I'm thankful that my new ob office tests women with my history so early and that it was caught.

Anyway, I am eager to jump back in to sewing projects.  Now you know why it's been so quiet around here.  My last two projects (Hawthorn Zip-Up Jacket and EYMM Piko Tops) were actually completed earlier than posted and I had to wait on the pattern release to blog about those projects. April and early May were mostly sickness and doctor appointments!  I made my first trip to JoAnns today and picked out fabric for a bed skirt I am making for our new bedroom.  I can't wait to share pictures!

((and just for kicks, we thought this outtake was hilarious.  Hopefully she like her new sibling better than she likes taking pictures about her new sibling!))

Hawthorn Zip-Up Sweatshirt by Titchy Threads for Willow & Co.

It's time to start saving your pdf pattern pennies! (if you have a budget for your pdf pattern purchases)


Willow & Co, a pattern collective, is releasing their Spring and Summer line, Wanderlust: a glamping collection, on Tuesday, April 22.  Here is a peek at one piece from the collection, the Hawthorn Zip-Up Sweatshirt by Laura at Titchy Threads and Craftstorming.  I was so excited to be in the tester group for this pattern and I am thrilled with the result!










Pattern Options and Features
The Hawthorn Zip-Up Sweatshirt can be made for boys or girls in a variety of fabrics from medium interlock, to sweatshirt, to fleece, with a contrast knit fabric for collar and zip facings, and a rib knit for sleeve cuffs.  Options include full- or half-zip, regular or split side seam, with or without pockets.  Sizing ranges from 6-12 months to 12 years.


Further details: 

• Pattern pieces vary for each age by color AND line style, so they can be printed in color or black and white. 
• Option to turn off all except one size using pdf layers.  This means you can print only the size or sizes you plan to use.
• Detailed pattern pieces including notches for lining up pieces, adding pockets, etc.  This is often not found on pdf patterns. 
• Pattern pieces are well laid out, and assembly does not result in one giant mass of paper to cut, but rather nicely sized, well-portioned pieces.
• PDF document featuring very detailed tutorial with color pictures of every step. 
• Size chart, finished measurements chart, fabric requirements and supplies list.
• Cheat Sheet at the end for when you need a basic reminder of what comes next instead of following the whole tutorial (for those who are very experienced sewists or have made the garment multiple times).
• Prints on both Letter and A4 paper
• Metric and imperial measurements included throughout

Personal Review
This pattern took thought, time, and attention - and I think the final product reflects the effort put forth.  It wasn't difficult.  I consider myself an advanced beginner, maybe?  It was my FIRST TIME EVER putting in a zipper.  I think it looks fantastic.  It was also my first time doing these kinds of facings, first time putting in pockets, and first time using twill tape.  I won't pretend I didn't use my seam ripper a time or two, but Laura's instructions walked me right through and taking the time and attention to do it right resulted in an awesome finished sweatshirt/jacket.  It looks so well made and it has everything to do with Laura's well-drafted pattern, her detailed instructions, and her involvement and responsiveness to the testers during the testing process.  She quickly responded to feedback, suggestions, and questions and made excellent adjustments to the pattern to make it just right.

My version is the half-zip, split side seam with pockets.  I do not have a huge stash of fabric to choose from (especially knit), so I had to go to my local JoAnn's to look for fabric.  I really wasn't excited about what they had for boys and actually went looking two or three times before settling on the grey/red double layer fleece.  I was inspired by the pirate skull iron-on decal I found, and went from there, using a zipper and thread that matched the red under layer of fleece and the red in the decal.  The contrast fabric that lines the collar, the zipper facing, and pockets is repurposed from a shirt.  I thought the black and grey stripes not only coordinated nicely, but echoed the pirate theme.  I did learn that the fabric had too much stretch for pockets, and they stretched below the hemline.  I fixed this later by sewing the pockets into the seam on the hem.  Laura also recommend in the tutorial now using a fabric with no more than 30% stretch for the pockets. Twill tape options are pretty limited at JoAnns.  Its cheap and only comes in black or white.  When you buy this pattern, check out the etsy shop Laura recommended for twill tape for a great selection on twill tape.

I have two other boys asking when I will make them their own sweatshirt.  Heading in to summer, this will probably wait until fall, unless I can find some lighter sweatshirt knit that I like for boys.  But I know that this pattern is one I will go back to for my own family and for gifts.  It's one of those excellent, well-drafted patterns with clear instructions and beautiful results that I am so glad to have in my collection!

This is my little man's favorite shot, so he wanted me to include it!

Thanks for reading the whole post!  I'd love your comments, new likes for Sew-Not-Prefect on Facebook, and new followers on bloglovin'.  Please stop back again soon!

Mommy and Me Piko Tops from EYMM

What is there not to love about a stylish, quick sewing project for both mom and daughter?  This is one of those great patterns that probably takes more time to assemble the pattern and cut the fabric than it does to sew it.  Kymy at Everything Your Mama Made and More designed these tops and I had the opportunity to be part of the tester group for both the girl's and women's versions.  You can purchase the pattern here, including a bundle for both the girl's and women's version.

The pattern is for lightweight knits and has options for a hi-low hem, sidetail hem, or regular hem, and the sleeves can be short, 3/4, or long.  For my first shirts, I used the short sleeve version with hi-low hem.  Kymy's instructions are clear, with lots of hints for first time knit users.  She gives instructions for sewing with or without a serger and with or without a double needle.  I used a double needle on my, as I usually like the finish it provides, but I had trouble with tunneling on my fabric.  I will be going back and adjusting the pressure on my presser foot to see if that eliminates this trouble.

I appreciate that the top is cute and comfy for both me and my daughter and that I was able to sew both tops in one morning.  I already had my daughter's fabric cut, but I printed, taped, cut, cut the fabric for myself and sewed both tops in one morning.  I might try a size down next time.  I usually wear and sew a medium, and the fit is fine on this top, but I am interested to see how a size down would look as well.

If you are looking for an easy stylish top for yourself or daughter (or both), you have to check out Kymy's Piko tops at Everything Your Mama Made & More!

Meet Rebecca of Candy Castle Patterns: An Interview

Meet Rebecca, the designer behind Candy Castle Patterns and Euro Fabric Shop.  She lives in the Netherlands (a tiny country in Europe next to Germany) and has four kids.  Rebecca worked in dentistry until her youngest daughter was born.  Due to her daughter's complicated health issues, they completely had to turn their life around, and she's pretty pleased with how it’s settled down now!  You've probably seen Rebecca's designs, if you haven't already sewn some of them.  Her Bubblegum dress was nominated for the Little Leading Lady Award in the 2014 Red Carpet Awards for Pdf Design, and the doll version of that dress was featured in the 2013 Designer's Challenge at Pattern Revolution.  Her Peppermint Swirl Dress (and doll version) are very popular among sewists and little girls alike - you can't resist the twirl power!  If you've spent any time in the Candy Castle Patterns Facebook Group, you  know how much fun it is to share photos, join sew-alongs, and get advice and help.  The group is celebrating 3,000 members this week!  Rebecca is very present in the group and lots of fun.

Besides sewing and designing, do you have other interests, abilities, or super powers? 
In the evenings, you can find me in the gym mostly, lifting weights. I like to cook and bake, especially together with the kids. They all have their own favorite recipes.

I’m also a fantasy geek, comic book nerd, and a true gamer (World of Warcraft), although the latter has been eliminated throughout the last years due to a lack of time. A true blood elf warlock by heart, though! I love watching shows with my other half; Game of Thrones and Spartacus are my all-time favorite shows, Walking Dead is a close runner-up.

Can we talk about your fingernails?  I think an added bonus of your patterns is seeing your different nail polishes and designs in the instructional photos.  I think my favorite design I’ve seen is the rainbows in the Soda Pop Polo Shirt pdf.  Are your nails always done?  Do you do them yourself?

I have always done nail art, because it makes me feel like I’m all on top of the game even when I don’t have makeup on. The kids usually get to pick the scenery mom is going to put on her nails. In dentistry I had to keep my nails very short of course, so it’s an added bonus that now I can not only show off my designs, but I can also grow my nails!  I always do them myself and it’s really not that much work! I do my nails once or twice a week and spend an hour at most – usually while we watch one of our shows. The secret is white nail polish – two layers underneath any design – and to always polish your nails. That way, it will become part of your routine, and it will in the long run, strengthen your nails and avoid breakage! My nails are always done, expect for once every couple months when I give them a two-week ‘breather.’ I totally feel naked then, though!

Candy and sweets play a big roll in your company - you even recommend snacks to enjoy while reading through your pattern and participate in Sew-Alongs.  Do you have a favorite dessert?
I love all things sweet!! We bake a LOT here, the kids all have a day in the week that they pick a recipe to cook or bake with mom (not just sweet treats, they also like to ‘help’ me cook dinner). I love cupcakes and candy, but cake is my favorite. Any kind of cake - especially with chocolate!   This is currently my daughter’s & my favorite.  (Chocolate Oreo Cake - and Google seems to do a good job with the translation if you want to give it a try!)

How long have you been sewing?  How did you learn? 

Bubblegum Dress using Euro Fabric
& Bias Tape from Rebecca's shop

Bubblegum Swing Dress

I’ve been sewing since I had a place of my own. 
My mom got me a machine for my birthday when I really knew nothing about sewing.  It turned out the best gift ever. My sister has a degree in fashion design and I always had my nose right in her business. Although she designed mostly bridal wear, couture maternity outfits, and other out-of-my-alley-stuff, I really enjoyed watching her design and work, and tried to understand how it was done.  (She is still my go-to advisor – I swear she drafts up a perfectly fitted, tailored pants in just thirty minutes, and she does it the old fashioned way – pen and paper!)  Sewing was not my main priority – it was the designing that attracted me, and sewing was something I just taught myself using mostly old-fashioned sewing books from the 1920s. Starting out, I created ill-fitting garments for myself – dresses, skirts, shirts.  Designing is difficult and takes a lot of practice!  I didn’t really wear those things outside the home! 


What is it about sewing and designing that you enjoy and are passionate about?
To be able to design onto a body and adjust clothing and sizing to accommodate the recipient - that is what makes sewing awesome.  You don’t need to work with generic sizes as you do when you buy a pants from a store.  Also, I very much respect and appreciate the old-fashioned sewing ethics.  If you own one or more of my patterns you may have noticed how I always point out couture etiquette rules (such as where buttons should be according to couture etiquette and on which side a pocket should be, or which way a wrap should go for a female garment, etc.). Oh, and you probably have noticed I’m a crazy bias tape fanatic! Almost all my patterns use bias tape, and I’m very thorough in making sure everyone is taught the correct, beautiful, fool-proof, old-fashioned way of attaching bias tape. I love my grading & drafting books; the old-fashioned ones mostly. The math & precision is right up my alley and I love seeing a project take shape. I really enjoy the technical aspect of designing.

Free pattern available
in doll, child and adult sizes!

When did you begin Candy Castle Patterns?  How did it come about?  How was the name chosen? 
I don’t think I ever ‘began’ Candy Castle Patterns; it was always right here. I was always creating & designing, but it was always on the backburner. It wasn’t until my youngest daughter was born and in need of more medical attention than I could offer her with a daytime job that I could actually turn what I loved doing into something more serious and dedicated. My oldest daughter came up with the candy theme (though in all honesty, she is not the only sweet tooth here; we all are!). 

I love how clear and encouraging your pattern tutorials are.  They are great for building confidence and learning new skills.  Have you had someone in your life who encouraged you and taught you new things?  Is that something you specifically had in mind when you started designing your own patterns?
My sister and her creations have definitely been a huge encouragement. I remember she had her first fashion show where one of her bridal gowns was being modeled, and I couldn’t make it due to work. I went through the pictures and she looked so happy and so fulfilled – I was equally proud! Although I design things so completely opposite of hers, I still feel a bit of what she felt that day of the fashion show, each time I receive a picture from a customer  of a little girl wearing an amazing dress. I love enabling people to do things they didn’t think possible with their skills.

Candy Castle Patterns Peppermint Swirl Dress

Do you have a favorite pattern you've designed, or one that has a special memory or sentiment attached to it?
My personal favorite must of course be the Peppermint Swirl Dress. It was just a silly thing in my mind that I had, that took a lot of uncommon and strange math. I decided to just give it a shot and sew one up – when I sewed together that last seam… Well, I think the whole neighborhood knew!   I think I even yelled for Kari to come see, while we all know my sweet friend & great help lives half a world away.

Can you tell us about your sewing space and machines?
Here in the Netherlands, houses are VERY small in comparison to yours. Our country is tiny and densely populated, so houses are tiny, like doll houses. A big sewing studio would be a dream – until that comes true, I have a very cool sewing space. It’s a fairly roomy  storage under the stairs (originally a closet where we just kept coats & food!) that I completely turned into a little sewing studio. It has chevron walls, pictures of me & my sis, drawings of the kids, inspirational prints, and everything that otherwise motivates me. A desk with my machines, some shelves, a drawer cabinet for my supplies and notions. I can be pretty messy while I sew, and the good thing about it is I can just close the door of the studio whenever it’s time for dinner or –shock- someone comes over unexpectedly! It’s okay that it’s small – it’s all I need; after all, I do not sew a lot. I mostly spend my working time at the computer, and so I have a very big desk with two computers, completely littered with notes, pens, drafting and grading books and empty coffee cups (I do clean up once or twice a day!). My grading & drafting books are like my bibles for designing, and I always have them near; they’re all smudgy and worn out of all that use and reading. 

I have a Brother sewing machine/embroidery machine that’s fairly new – that sewing machine Mom gave me for my birthday years ago was the one I used until it gave out! My serger is a second hand old lady; she is over 25 years old and all out of metal parts. She is like a tank and will plow through anything! I love her!

What is your favorite sewing tool you own?
It’s not a tool I guess, but I like the embroidery machine feature on my machine. Turns every garment into something special.

Can you think of a memorable sewing project that didn’t go right - something Sew Not Perfect – that you had to abandon or work to correct?  Or do you have a pet-peeve sewing mistake that drives you crazy whenever you do it? 
I have many of those.  Sometimes, a design doesn’t look like I want it to – or much worse. It’s all part of the process. Sometimes I decide it’s not worth it and I don’t like the project at all, so I trash it. I had that with a cowl neck dress last fall.  Sometimes, I really do like the project and I keep on drafting until it’s perfect, even if it takes me weeks.  (Below: During the recent Soda Pop Polo shirt Sew-Along in the Candy Castle Patterns Group on Facebook, Rebecca ran into a bit of a hitch with the Snow White version of her top, and came up with something even more amazing!)

...And came up with this instead!

The embroidery on this top didn't go right

So she cut it off...

How much time do you think you spend sewing each week (or working on a sewing project, if not actually using a sewing machine)?  How much time do you spend designing and/or running Candy Castle?
I do not sew much, perhaps 2 or 3 times a week. I’m a fast seamstress, so that works to my advantage, but I do make crazy work hours. Candy Castle takes over twice the amount of time that a fulltime day job takes – SO totally worth it though!

 Any hints what 2014 might hold for Candy Castle Patterns? 
I have a very busy schedule all planned out for this year. Fully booked. However, I’m way behind already, and often, my schedule is much more optimistic than I can actually manage to put out.  I have some ladies' designs in the works and a very long list of everything else I wish to design this year. As always though, 2014 will also be filled with Sew Alongs, because I simply LOVE having everyone around to sew together, chat with and share inspiration!

Thanks, Rebecca, for taking time to answer a few questions and give us a peek behind Candy Castle Patterns.  Be sure to stop by the Candy Castle Patterns Facebook Page, Facebook Group, and Website to join in on the fun and check out all her designs and fabric.

Candy Waltz Collection featuring Candy Wrapper Vest,
 Sugar Plum Fairy Skirt, and Licorice Bits Legwarmers. 

Rebecca wearing the soon-to-be-released
Cherry Cosmopolitan Dress for Women.

Butterscotch Bloomers

Triple Layer Cake Tunic

Something for the Boys!

What could be more fun and frugal than spending less than $10 to make shirts for my three favorite boys?!  That is just what I did this week with three t-shirts from Goodwill, thread, and the Candy Castle Patterns Soda Pop Polo Shirt pattern.  I joined the Sew-Along, but missed the deadline trying to get three shirts done, during History Fair Week, while doing an unrelated pattern test.  I think I bit off a bit more than I could chew!  But in the end, I am pretty happy with the result and I certainly learned a lot.





This project was my first time:

1. Sewing with knit fabric
2. Sewing with a double needle
3. Using my new serger
4. Using this particular pattern
5. Making a collar
6. Using a stretch stitch

Since I was upcycling old t-shirts, I was limited in the amount of fabric I had available.  The boys wanted hoods, but I didn't have enough fabric for those.  I thought true collars would have looked better (and hidden errors better), but the boys nixed that idea, so we settled on the henley style.   The pattern certainly gives the option to use a contrast fabric for the hood/collars/insets/etc, including a woven instead of knit.  Several times I went to local fabric shops to see if they had anything I liked, but in the end, I decided to make the shirts completely from the original t-shirts.  This also saved on my cost, and since this was my first time sewing knits and my first time using the pattern, this was a particular plus.  I think the shirts cost a buck or two each at Goodwill in the men's t-shirt section.

My two younger boys wear about the same size, and I made size 5 for both of them with a longer length for the older one.  I made a size 9 for my oldest son.

My Star Wars guy was excited to find this shirt at Goodwill because his dad has the same T-shirt.  He asked for a chest pocket and seems really excited about his shirt.

 

For my little Spiderman, I added a web-like box at the bottom of the placket and a mini pocket on each sleeve using the smallest pocket pattern piece.  I had the worst time for some reason with the button holes on his shirt.  I think some thread got stuck in the bobbin area of my machine.  After I cleaned it out, it worked better, but the third buttonhole had already been ruined by that point, so I added a small piece of the web-print fabric to cover the error.

 

My little Superman was pretty particular and insisted I not put buttons on his shirt.  He wanted a zipper, but it was a bit late for that by the time I found out.  He said snaps might be okay, but I don't have a press, so we will see.  For now he claims he will wear another shirt under it!

Overall, the pattern went together well.  My biggest problem was with the collars.  I did end up cutting collars a size larger for the size 5 shirts (I used a size 6Y collar) and had trouble stretching it to fit without getting a tiny pucker in the main shirt fabric as I sewed it on.  In the end, I got it okay, but it took a few tries.  I was able to save the original hem for the sleeves and I did my own hem with a double needle for the three shirts.  I also had a bit of difficultly with placement of the buttonholes, as the bottom of the placket was too thick to fit under my machine, so I could not get a button any lower than the ones I did.

The boys were all excited to get their first non-costume garment made by mom and wore them the rest of the day as soon as I finished.  I am pleased enough with the results, particularly because of all the new experiences I gained, but they are not pieces I would want in a portfolio or anything.  I need to work on straighter stretch stitches around the neckline (I did learn that I need to increase me stitch length for better results).  I also confess to not taking the time toward the end to do things as well as I could have.  I was pretty eager to be done with all three shirts by the time I was getting to the end!  I am confident that the next time I use knits and the next time I use this pattern I will have much better results with the experience I gained using this pattern (for three shirts) and I am glad my three little men are so excited about their new super-shirts.