Annabelle Striped Chevron Dress by Violette Field Threads

I wouldn't say it often, but this time I will.  "This is a dreamy dress!"

I love the aesthetic of Ericka and Jessica at Violette Field Threads, and this pattern is no exception.  It offers many options for fabric combinations and creativity.  The best news is that you can purchase it for around $4 as part of the Girls' Bundle UP sale at Pattern Revolution until February 2.  I've reviewed and recommend another pattern in the bundle, The Potato Chip Skirt from Tie Dye Diva, so now you only have to pick 4 (or more!) for your own bundle and go Bundle UP.  This sale is a great opportunity to add new patterns to your pdf pattern library without breaking the bank - the sale price is at least half off what you would pay for each pattern at regular price.  If you haven't been following the Pattern Revolution Girls Bundle Up blog tour, be sure to visit the other bloggers to see the ways they sewed the patterns.  Also, you can enter the Sewing Bee and Giveaway for your chance at amazing prizes.

My version uses a navy cotton bandana print from the Hatbox Collection for Cotton+Steel (spring 2014), a pink linen, and an ivory lace overlay on the pink linen with the optional inset added to the bodice.  Photographing this dress in the middle of a midwest winter is not ideal.  I think I'll need to go visit my parents and grandparents in Florida so I can try again on a sunny warm beach!

Options

• Front inset on bodice is optional - this piece is sewn on top of the bodice piece, making it a great option for adding embroidery or other details
• Piping, lace, or other trim between optional placket and bodice

Sizes

• 2T-10 years

Features

• Maxi-length dress with three chevron stripes
• Wide shoulder straps with appropriate coverage and hold without sagging or slipping.
• Back elastic on bodice
• Sizing based on finished garment measurements
• One file for both pattern and tutorial. 

PDF File Information
I appreciate that you don't have to print all pages - they provide a guide for what pages to print based on the size you intend to sew.  I had no problem with the pattern pieces or instructions.  Pattern pieces include the pattern name and designer as well as grainline indications.  They do include notches for placement of the strap on the bodice.  The layout of the tutorial is basic (I would consider it typical of many pdf patterns) with photographs (instead of illustrations) and instructions in an outline/paragraph style with the appearance and format of a Word document.  Sizing is done by finished garment length with the suggestion to sew your child's RTW size.  I found the tutorial easy to follow.

Things You Might Like to Know

When choosing your size, be sure to pay attention to the finished measurement chart which recommends sewing your child's RTW (ready-to-wear) size.  Don't be afraid to size up on the dress.  My daughter is a very average size 2 in RTW at 27 months old.  The size 2 was short for her.  It is my fault for not paying closer attention to the length in the finished measurement chart.  I could have easily done a size 3 and then modified the back elastic, if necessary.  As I did it, the size 2 is an ok fit but snug and without growing room.  I didn't have enough length to hem, so I did a rolled hem.  I'll add a true hem later so my other daughter can wear it in 15 months.  I imagine it would fit some 18 month olds with the correct or a shortened hem.

Also, if your daughter is on the higher end of the size range (at least around size 2), consider using the larger size strap.  This dress could fit better through the arms and be easier to put on with a little more room in the arms.  I am not saying it is a pattern fault, just a couple things that I'll keep in mind when I sew this again (soon)!

The optional inset is backed, so that section of the dress is perfect for embroidery.  There are four layers at this part of the dress (bodice front, bodice lining/backing, inset front, inset lining/backing) and in my case there are five layers with the lace overlay.

I'm thinking of using stretch thread in my bobbin next time when I sew the skirt to the bodice.  I wonder if that would add some give?

I will certainly sew this dress again soon.  I plan to make another for my daughter to wear this summer.  I loved this fabric combination but used every last inch of the Cotton+Steel bandana print, and my fabric shop is out of it.  Maybe I'll hunt around the internet for more - it would be sweet to make a matching set with a larger size for the girls when they are bigger.  

Links:

Shop Pattern Revolution Bundle UP Sale
Enter Pattern Revolution's Sewing Bee and Giveaway
See my other post for the Bundle UP tour (Potato Chip Skirt by Tie Dye Diva)
See the other Violette Field Threads dress I've sewn (Josephine)

Tie Dye Diva Potato Chip Skirt for Girls and Doll for Pattern Revolution's Girls' BundleUP Tour

The versatility and ease of sewing a Potato Chip Skirt will keep you sewing another and another just like the salty, crispy goodness of potato chips keeps you coming back for more and more!  (Of course, in my case it might be called the Double Stuffed Oreo Skirt, but that's not the point.)  Today is one of my days on the Pattern Revolution Girls' BundleUP blog tour showing off the designs available in the current Girls' BundleUP pattern bundle.  BundleUP is your opportunity to get great new patterns (not previously released) at a low bundle price ($4.00-$4.50 each depending on how many patterns you purchase).  I'm glad you came by!  My goal is to provide a helpful review, so besides pictures and a general review,  I've included Things You Might Like to Know and a few For What It's Worth Tips that I hope you'll find helpful.

I made two skirts in a size 2 using the Potato Chip Skirt pattern by Tie Dye Diva - both using the unlined version.  This pattern is suitable for a wide variety of fabrics.  I wanted to use fabric that would not easily wrinkle and could be worn during the cold winter here in the midwest.  One skirt features a stretch denim fabric with piping at the pockets.  The second skirt uses a fun vintage poly-acrylic suiting fabric with a that was handed down from my grandma.  (That one is my favorite.)  My two-year old daughter fit right in line with the size 2 for height, although she was closer to the 18-24m size for waist, so I followed the instructions and used the size for her height and adjusted the elastic for a good fit at the waist.

Options

• Reversible, lined, or unlined skirt with differentiated instructions and hem cut lines
• Add piping or other decorative trim to pocket

Sizes

• 12-18m through 13/14

Features

• Fully-enclosed waistband (no raw edges even if not using a serger) (picture below)
• Instruction to use interfacing in waistband (yeah! thank you, Jen!)
• Piping tutorial
• Pockets on front skirt (not on reverse front of skirt if choosing reversible option)
• Great beginner pattern
• Back elastic (picture below)
• Sizing based on wearer's height, adjust elastic to fit waist
• Wide variety of suitable fabrics
• Pink Pin tips from the designer with helpful reminder or tips.
• One file for both pattern and tutorial.  Separate file for 18" doll skirt, top, and tutorial.

PDF File Information
I had no problem with the pattern pieces or instructions.  Pattern pieces include the pattern name and designer as well as grainline indications on most pieces, but do not include notches for matching (not a problem on a basic pattern like this).  The layout of the tutorial is basic (I would consider it typical of many pdf patterns) with photographs (instead of illustrations) and instructions in an outline/paragraph style with the appearance and format of a Word document.  It includes relevant measurement charts.  I found it easy to follow.

Things You Might Like to Know

I like that the back elastic allows my daughter to easily dress and undress.  At first I thought I would have preferred a zipper, but then I realized that almost all her skirts have elastic waists and that it's far more practical for dressing (and potty training) and general fit.

I love that the waistband is enclosed and does not leave raw edges.  It isn't difficult, and the finished result is so much better. (picture below)  I also appreciate including instructions for interfacing the waistband.

This was my first TDD pattern!

This was also my first doll pattern.  In fact, we don't even own an 18' doll, so a special thanks goes to my friend Linda at Sew Happily Ever After and her daughters for loaning us the model.

This was the first time I used piping and it went well.  The tutorial walks you through it, and it's a small area so it's a great way to try something new if you haven't done it before.  I like the piping detail so much, I think I might always do it that way - or with lace or some other trim.  After making the plaid skirt, I wish I'd had a leather piping or maybe a navy for that skirt.  Wouldn't that look great?

For What It's Worth - Tips
For threading the elastic - If you don't already own a bodkin - can I urge you to invest in one?  I had no idea how much easier a bodkin would be over the old safety pin technique.  They are easy to find online and in stores and they are cheap.  You have every reason to own one.  (Here is the one I have.  not an affiliate link)  For the doll skirt, my bodkin wouldn't fit through, so I did use a safety pin.

For hemming your skirt - Two words: blind hem.  I sewed a blind hem with my sewing machine for both skirts and in my opinion, the hem is so much nicer and less bulky.  If you've never sewn one before, or you are like me and you've tried it an failed miserably, let me know and I'll walk you though it (until I get my own tutorial put up).  You can also google it, but I will warn you that some of the tutorials out there make it look more difficult than it actually is!

So You Want to Draft Your Own?

I've read that some women want to draft their own pattern for this skirt.  That's fine and all, but I'm not someone who has time for that - let alone to do it over and over for each size I want to make.  Jen of Tie Dye Diva has already done all that work - and it's less than $5 in the Girls' Bundle Up deal. The time it would take me to draft the pattern just once is well worth $5 - not to mention I have two daughters in two different sizes and you get a free matching doll skirt and peasant top! 

I love the enclosed waistband with no exposed raw edges.  So neat and tidy!

Back elastic waistband.  Would be easy to convert to adjustable with buttons.

Be sure to follow along with the rest of the blog tour
for Pattern Revolution's Girls' BundleUP:

Remnant Bin Infinity Scarf Tutorial

I haven't sewn something wearable (including accessories) for myself since 2004!  I was inspired by Pattern Revolution's Sew Yourself Some Love to make something for myself; while I have a couple projects on my to-do pile now, I started with something simple.  This project is so quick and easy!  Nothing fancy or award winning, but perfect for a nap time craft or when you want a quick little something for yourself or a gift.  I am sure there are tons of tutorials on Pinterest and Google, but here is my version.

Fabric

I found my fabric in the remnant bin at my local JoAnns and paid just a couple bucks for it.  You could certainly do the same with any fabric you like cut from a bolt as well.  Remnant fabric is very cost effective and budget friendly.   I chose a polyester with a nice silky feel and fun cheetah print.  I am not an animal print person, usually, so this is kind of out-of-the-box for me, but I though it would be fun and versatile.  It is about .67 yards of 56" wide fabric, according to the label (I have doubts that it is that  Fabric any shorter/narrower (less than 56") will only be able to be wrapped around the neck once, but wider fabric will work well and provide longer loops that are not so close to the neck.  You will want to choose a knit or silky fabric that lays nicely.  Typical cotton woven fabric will not work well. 

my fabric - shown folded in half top to bottom

Machine

I used a serger, but you can also use a sewing machine set appropriately for whatever fabric you are using.  (speaking of sergers, I owe a big thanks to my friend Linda at Sew Happily Ever After for loaning me her serger recently.  I've been having trouble attaining one of my own)

Here is what you do:

 *Note:  I did not pin my fabric, since the nature of the scarf does not require that the fabric is lined up perfectly, but you could certainly pin your fabric between each step if it helps you.

Make sure your machine (serger or sewing) is set up properly for your fabric of choice.  If you do not have similar test fabric, use the short end of your fabric to run a seam, and when your adjustments are correct you can either use your serger or scissors to cut off the test area before proceeding.

When your machine is set properly, fold your fabric in half matching up the long sides, so that the right side of the fabric is on the inside, and the wrong side is facing you.  Serge or sew a seam down the long edge of the fabric, so that you end up with a long tube of fabric with open ends.  (I used a rolled hem, since that is how the machine was already set up.)

Turn your tube right side out now, so that the correct side of your fabric is facing out, and the seam you just made is now hidden on the inside of your fabric tube.

Fold your tube in half, so that the unfinished short ends of fabric meet.

Twist one side of the fabric one turn (180 degrees) in your hand and match the two ends again.  You are creating a twist in your loop of fabric.  It should look like this:

showing twist in fabric

Then

matched up edges at front (left), twist in fabric at back (right side in photo)

With your edges matched up, sew the edges together.  You are running four layers of fabric through your machine.  I used a rolled hem on my serger for a nice finished look.  (For extra credit, you can fold back the last 1/2"-1" at each end, so that at each end you are actually sewing through 8 layers of fabric at the very end on each side before you sew.  If you do this, it will help hide the seam even more when you turn your scarf.  It is not necessary.)

When you finish that seam, your should have a ring of fabric with no openings.  Turn the seam you just made, so that it is on the underside of your scarf.

You are done!